Living in Amman, Jordan

Sido Alkurdi Mosque

I had never been to a Middle East country before coming to Jordan as a Fellow in the U.S. State Department's English Language Program. I had been a Fellow at Africa University in Mutare, Zimbabwe, in 2019, and then along came Covid and the program shut down. I waited until I received another fellowship, which was in Amman.

I had a positive impression of Amman before coming here, and that turned out to be pretty much accurate. It is advanced, and a person can enjoy a life here much as they would in the U.S., Europe, Japan, or other advanced countries. One thing that stands out is the number of electric cars. I take Uber often, and always request an electric car.

Cost of living. Although Amman has a reputation for being expensive, I find it to be reasonably priced, and rent is certainly cheaper than it is in many countries. About 500 USDs, for a one-bedroom flat in a good area.

Plenty of good places to eat. Olives, dates, and cheeses, lots. Good shopping. Lots of malls. Phone service is not so expensive and very reliable. Just need a SIM card and to pay monthly. Credit cards are widely used, so a person can use their American or another country's foreign card and pay the bill online. ATMs everywhere. Easy to get cash, if you need it.

People are very friendly and there is no threat of violent crime.

Traffic is a bit too much, and honking of horns can be an irritation, and crossing a busy street can be dangerous, but, in general, drivers will stop and let a person cross the street. Even so, there are pedestrian bridges, just not enough of them.

Amman has an old town, where there is a Roman theater and a citadel. Lots of small shops there and good restaurants.

My wife and I go to the Hive Fitness Nation about every day, within walking distance of where we live. A very well-equipped, clean place, with a jacuzzi and a small pool.

Many places to go on day trips from Amman, Jericho, Madaba (old orthodox church and mosaic of Palestine), the Dead Sea, and Jerash, and many more. Petra is a good five-hour drive away, as is Aqaba.

Winter is—the only one we experienced—a bit dark and weary, but short, really, from mid-December through March.

Visit Amman and use it as a base to see so many other places. Easy to connect with an Uber driver and pay him cash, negotiate a price.

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